Sunday, 27 April 2014

Easter 2014 in Switzerland

After long winter working hard and trying to train a little when not too tired, Evie and I set of for Magic Wood in Switzerland again.  13 hours of driving and 5 hours at most of bad sleeping in a French services later, we arrived at the campsite of Magic Wood. There was a bit of snow left and some boulders were dry but not the one I was interested in. Waking up to the sound of rain the next day made us decide pretty quickly that the place wasn’t going to dry fast and we would be better of  going somewhere else! Chironico seamed like the obvious place to go, only 1hour 30mins away. We found the really nice little bar restaurant called ‘Pizzo Forno’ that the owner of Magic Wood campsite and Guest house told us to go to find the guide book.

 The Goat, topping out!
 After a quick drink, we couldn’t wait any longer! We went of for a walk in the boulder area ‘Boogalagga’ and I got really attracted to a line called ‘Saludos Amigos’ font7b+. A group of Italian lads were trying it with already a lot’s of pads which seamed like the perfect occasion to try it too. So exited to be in front of real rock again I forgot to warm up and went strait on it for a flash attempt. I got to the second to last move, but I wasn’t able to close my hand into the crimp position I needed! That was my fault for not warming up! Second go, the boulder went a lot easier, thanks to all the Italians for the spots and pads.

The next day, I wanted to try a boulder called ‘Komilator’ f7c+, I had previously seen videos of it and it looked really cool. On the way to find it, we did a couple of warm ups then finely found it. In my first few goes I got to the last move but I didn’t managed to finish if as my skin was starting to hurt. We needed a rest day after that, it takes time to get your skin in shape for granite when you mostly climb on plastic!

 Me on 'Souvenir' font 8a
 Day after the rest day, I went back to ‘Komilator’ and finished it in a few goes with an awesome little jump on the last move. After that , I wanted to try a boulder called ‘Souvenir’, font8a from ‘Fred Nicole’ . First little play on it I got shut down, so we went to find an easier but amazing line called ‘Tomahawk’ font7b. I flashed it, thanks to Evie for beta, then I wanted to go back to ‘Souvenir’ to see if I could find better beta. I did find much better beta, more suited to my body and to my surprise, I almost finish it falling of the last move L!

 Me on 'Souvenir' font 8a
 I went back to it the next day after 4 coffees and managed to finish it feeling pretty broken! The day after that was our last day in Chironico, I went with Evie to spot her on her project before heading back to London via a weekend stop at my Parents in Burgundy. This trip has got me really psyched for bouldering again, and I can't wait for my next trip !

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