Monday, 5 September 2011

Climbing Trip Back Home


I have been back home in Burgundy (France) last week with Evie to see my family and climb a bit of course !!
I started of an easy day doing a few 7s to get the feel back of the rock and the next day I was well up for trying something harder ! I heard of the unrepeated route called "Guignole" 8b+/c??? so I decided to give it a try and see ...

Guignole 8b+/c        

Well, it didn't quiet work out as well as I was hoping, I did all the moves but it would of taken me more than a week to link it !
I decided to find another project and set myself on a route called "Aristoloche" 8b+ witch seemed more suited to me .
The route started of pretty easy maybe 6c or 7a but steep leading to a hard boulder problem maybe V8 or v9 leading to a resistant finish maybe 8a ! Close but no cigar :(  fell right at the last move of the boulder problem, hitting the double crimp but not holding it , from there I could get to the anchor every time !

I finished the trip by trying to onsight an 8a that I was saving , but fell right at the top of the last crux section of it not noticing a knee bar right in front of me , grrrrrrrr ho well I am gonna skip the details ....

La Tonsure 8a

Et voila , ended the trip on the last day by redpointing it , "La tonsure" 8a , a superb route 35m long and Evie getting 3 7a's.

A bientôt ...
Yann

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